Escape Taiwan’s busy cities and take a peaceful mountain train ride

A train winds around mountain tracks — Sean Hsu / Shutterstock

Taiwan is full of surprises, and the Alishan Forest Railway is one of its most breathtaking. Winding through misty mountains, ancient forests, and tea plantations, this historic narrow-gauge railway is one of the most scenic train rides in the world. Whether you’re a rail enthusiast, a nature lover, or just looking for an unforgettable travel experience, Alishan delivers in spades.

A Journey Through the Clouds

Originally built by the Japanese in 1912 to transport timber from Alishan’s forests, the railway has since transformed into a beloved tourist attraction. It starts in Chiayi, a bustling city in southern Taiwan, and climbs over 2,200 meters to the Alishan National Scenic Area. Along the way, passengers experience an incredible shift in climate, vegetation, and scenery, making it one of the most unique train rides anywhere.

What to Expect on the Ride

A train goes under a bridge — bento.memories / Shutterstock

The full journey from Chiayi to Alishan takes about three and a half hours, though landslides and typhoons have occasionally damaged parts of the line. As of recent years, the main line only operates up to Fenqihu, a charming mountain village, with additional segments running higher into Alishan. But don’t worry—Fenqihu is still worth the trip, and shuttle buses can take you the rest of the way to the Alishan Scenic Area.

Expect plenty of switchbacks, spirals, and tunnels as the train zigzags its way up the mountains. It’s a slow climb, but that’s part of the magic. Along the way, you’ll pass through bamboo groves, cedar forests, and bridges that seem to float above the mist. If you can, grab a window seat on the right side for the best mountain views.

Best Time to Ride

Spring and autumn are the best times to visit. Spring brings cherry blossoms, turning Alishan into a pink wonderland, while autumn showcases golden maple leaves. If you visit in summer, expect lush green landscapes and cooler mountain temperatures, a welcome escape from Taiwan’s humid lowlands. Winter is less popular due to the cold, but if you're lucky, you might see a rare snowfall dusting the treetops.

Must-See Stops and Highlights

Lanterns in a street — Tupungato / Shutterstock

Fenqihu, known as the "Jiufen of the Mountains," is a small village famous for its railway bento boxes, a legacy of its role as a refueling stop for old steam trains. Try the Fenqihu lunchbox, which comes with braised pork, tofu, and pickled vegetables. The Old Street is packed with local snacks like wasabi peanuts and mochi, making it the perfect place for food lovers.

The sunrise at Zhushan is one of Taiwan’s most iconic natural spectacles. Perched high in the mountains, Zhushan offers breathtaking panoramic views over rolling cloud seas. Take the early morning Alishan Forest Railway shuttle from Alishan Station to catch the sunrise, an unforgettable moment of nature at its finest.

The Giant Trees Trail is a must-visit for nature lovers. Once you reach Alishan, explore this peaceful pathway lined with towering cypress trees over 2,000 years old. The air here is crisp and pine-scented, creating an atmosphere that feels almost sacred.

Tips for an Unforgettable Trip

A train travels under cherry trees — AaronChenPS2 / Shutterstock

Booking tickets in advance is crucial since the Alishan Forest Railway is extremely popular, especially on weekends and during cherry blossom season. It is best to reserve your tickets online or at a train station well ahead of time. The altitude change is significant, so be prepared for a drop in temperature as you ascend. Even in summer, it can get chilly, so bringing a jacket is a good idea.

Staying overnight in Alishan is highly recommended to experience the sunrise without rushing. The area offers a range of accommodations, from basic lodges to comfortable hotels, allowing you to fully immerse yourself in the mountain atmosphere. Pairing your visit with a tea tour is another fantastic way to enhance your trip. The region around Alishan is famous for high-mountain oolong tea, and stopping by a tea plantation for a tasting session is a must to understand why Alishan tea is among Taiwan's best.

Getting There

The easiest way to reach the Alishan Forest Railway is by taking a high-speed train from Taipei to Chiayi, a journey that takes about 90 minutes. From Chiayi Station, transfer to the Alishan Forest Railway for a nostalgic and scenic ride into the mountains.

Final Thoughts

The Alishan Forest Railway is more than just a train ride—it’s a passage through Taiwan’s history, culture, and natural beauty. Whether you go for the misty mountains, the nostalgic railway experience, or simply to escape the city, Alishan is one of those bucket-list destinations that lives up to the hype. So, pack your bags, grab your camera, and get ready for a ride through the clouds.