When Florence is baking and the Chianti roads are jammed with rental Fiats, it’s time to head west

Colourful seaside buildings — arkanto / Shutterstock

You’ve heard of Elba—Napoleon’s exile pad. Maybe you’ve sipped wine on Monte Argentario or wandered through the fishing villages of the Cinque Terre. But nestled in the Tyrrhenian Sea, just an hour’s ferry ride from Porto Santo Stefano, lies Isola del Giglio, a speck of rugged paradise that's mercifully skipped by the hordes.

Giglio is technically part of Tuscany, but it couldn’t feel further from the sunbaked piazzas and gelato mobs of San Gimignano. With under 1,500 year-round residents and only three main villages, it offers the ultimate Mediterranean detox: quiet coves, goat-strewn hillsides, and seafood so fresh it practically swims onto your plate.

Why Giglio Flies Under the Radar

Giglio should be on every Italian island list, but its lack of an airport keeps the masses away. Most visitors are Italians from the mainland who know better than to battle the crowds in Forte dei Marmi come August.

The island's reputation took a hit in 2012 when the Costa Concordia cruise ship ran aground nearby. But in a twist of fate, that disaster may have preserved Giglio’s low-key vibe. Tourism dipped, cruise ships stopped calling, and the locals got back to business as usual—fishing, winemaking, and guarding their secret slice of the Med.

Where to Stay: Rustic, Chic, and Barefoot Friendly

If you’re picturing high-end resorts with infinity pools, you’ve got the wrong island. Giglio’s accommodation scene is refreshingly underdone. The best way to stay is in a locally run B&B in Giglio Castello, the ancient hilltop village that looks like it fell out of a medieval time warp. Think stone alleys, fortress walls, and sweeping views over the sea.

For something closer to the beach, Giglio Campese has a handful of relaxed hotels and beach apartments—no chain hotels, just family-run spots where someone’s nonna might hand you fresh biscotti at check-in. Try Hotel Arenella for quiet charm with breakfast terraces overlooking the bay, or La Rosada if you want a kitchen and space to chill with a bottle of Ansonaco (more on that in a minute).

The Beaches: Yes, They’re That Good

Despite its small size, Giglio is ringed with stunning coastline, and—here’s the kicker—many beaches are uncrowded even in July. Cala dell’Arenella is a stunner: small, golden, and backed by pine trees. It’s a five-minute drive or twenty-minute walk from Giglio Porto, the island’s ferry dock.

If you want long stretches of sand, Campese Beach is your go-to. It’s the island’s largest, with reddish sand, shallow water, and dramatic cliffs at either end. The sunset here is pure gold—literally. Locals bring wine and settle in for aperitivo hour on the rocks.

More adventurous types should hike down to Cala del Corvo or Cala degli Alberi, hidden coves reached via goat tracks and gnarled scrub. There are no services—just clear water, snorkel-friendly rocks, and utter silence.

Eat Like a Fisherman, Drink Like a Farmer

Giglio’s food scene is all about keeping it simple and sea-sourced. This is not the place for Michelin-starred frills—it’s grilled fish, marinated anchovies, and hand-cut pasta all the way.

Start at La Margherita in Giglio Castello, a rustic trattoria where the seafood risotto is made to order and the views roll all the way to Montecristo. Down at the port, Doria serves knockout spaghetti alle vongole and grilled bream just steps from the dock where it was unloaded.

And then there’s Ansonaco—the island’s native wine. It’s made from Ansonica grapes, grown on steep, sun-drenched terraces with zero intervention. Expect a deep golden color, a slightly salty finish, and absolutely no pretension. Visit Altura Winery or Francesco Carfagna’s winery, both of which produce this ancient-style white in tiny, passionate batches. You’ll meet the winemaker, hear about the donkeys used to haul grapes uphill, and taste something truly one-of-a-kind.

Hike It Off: Trails with Serious Views

You’ll need to burn off all that seafood somehow, and hiking on Giglio is both scenic and surprisingly challenging. The trail from Giglio Castello to Punta Capel Rosso—the island’s southern tip—is the crown jewel. It’s a 2–3 hour trek past vineyards, crumbling watchtowers, and wide-open sea views that’ll clear your head faster than a double espresso.

The Sentiero del Faraglione, on the east side, gives you a dramatic cliff-edge path down to a secluded beach, while the trail up to Poggio della Pagana, the island’s highest point, offers a 360-degree panorama from Elba to Corsica on clear days.

Pro tip: bring hiking shoes, not flip-flops. The island’s paths are rocky, wild, and occasionally feral—just the way they should be.

Getting There (and Why It’s Easier Than You Think)

First, make your way to Porto Santo Stefano, a lovely port town in southern Tuscany. From Rome, it’s about a 2-hour drive, or you can take a train to Orbetello and grab a bus or taxi from there. Ferries to Giglio run several times a day in summer, take about 60 minutes, and are run by Toremar and Maregiglio.

Once on the island, ditch the car if you can. A local bus links the main villages, and hiking or renting a scooter is much more fun than fighting for a parking spot.

Final Thoughts: Why Giglio Is the Escape You Didn’t Know You Needed

Tuscany in summer is magic—but it’s also madness. Giglio offers a completely different tempo: slow, salty, and serenely disconnected from the mainland hustle. It’s not trying to be the next Amalfi or a designer destination. That’s precisely the point.

Come for the empty beaches, stay for the wine made by hand, and leave with salt in your hair and absolutely no regrets.